Monthly Archives: November 2011
Adjusting unadjustable valve playings

Update: This article takes the Mark kid’s do not try this at home because there is a proper solution, from the Suzuki Workshop handbook, which I do not have! The solution is to build out the camshaft and the tappets and grind down the valve shaft.

This weekend I made a huge Inspection on my GS500E when I discovered that the Valve playing on my left exhaust valve was gone. Unfortunately this was the one with the 215er Shim which is the smallest available.

I think the cylinder head is dieing, since the valve is digging deeper and deeper into it. Which is the cause of a lack of
service a few years ago. But why not grind those shims down, drive another 20000 km?

This is how I did it. First I drilled a 2 mm hole with a forstner drill into a piece of wood:



Then I angle grinded one side of the shim down. Being careful not to overheat the shim. When I had the right distance, I finisched it with a sander. I put the grinded and sanded side to the bottom, so the cam can pusch on the original side.

I don’t know how long this will last, but I hope it is better than doing nothing until the engine breaks down.

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HOWTO kickstart that 1000cc diesel bike

Diskbrake project

I must admit, that those Russian drum brakes are not as relieable as i want them to be. Every 2000 km you have to adjust the cable tunings, every 1000 km you have to exchange the cable and also the steal within the aluminium drums is going very thin through the years.

So the cheapest and most propper way to get a better front break on your iron cluster is, to get a hub with a disk and build on the bike. That is what people told me. So I startet a search on several online services and found this for 15 bugs on :

It is a 19″ wheel. I think it is propably from a Honda CB550 or CB750. So the first part of the new diskbrake system is there.